12 Dec Romain Terrier Volunteer Blog 2. Lobitos, Peru
I want to tell you about a surf session that I had last week. I think that it’s one of the best surf session I have ever had.
Ludo and I woke up at 4 :45am, at this early time it was still dark outside. We just had time to have breakfast, drink a coffee and Tali arrived with his motorcycle tryke to pick us up. We tied our surfboards to the back and left. It was 5 :15am, Lobitos was still sleeping and it was still dark..
We drove on a dirt path through sand hills. The sun began to rise, the orange light started to warm up the temperature and let us discover the beautiful landscape. After less than half an hour we arrived to the secret spot. Nobody in the water apart from a fishing boat. A long left wave, 4 feet high, was waiting for us. We looked at each other, we smiled and started walking on the beach with our surfboards and wetsuits.
It was 6 :00am, we stopped in front of the wave, put on the rest of our wetsuits, ran in the water and paddled into line up. As soon as I rode my first wave I understood that this session will be memorable. We could ride waves for so long and we didn’t have to worry about dozens of other guys who try to drop you or snake you. In summary, the perfect session for a surfer.
After two hours in the water and dozens of perfect waves, we walk back to the the motorcycle, affectionately known as El Burro or The Donkey ! We tied surfboards, sat in the back and drove back to Lobitos, it was 8 :30am. I will always remember this feeling of pure happiness that we felt on the way back.
How can we start a day better ?